Getting to Know Seifuku and Ishou in Japanese Idol Culture

AKB48 Theater Costume Exhibition (X.com/@osarecompany)

Seifuku and ishou are two words that we may often hear in the context of Japanese fashion and pop culture. Seifuku, meaning “uniform,” is often associated with school uniforms worn by students in Japan, while ishou means “clothes or costumes” in general. In this article, we will dive deeper into how these two terms reflect culture, social norms, and dynamics in society.

Let's get to know what seifuku is

Let’s start with seifuku. School uniforms in Japan usually consist of a jacket, skirt, and tie for girls, while for boys, it usually consists of trousers and a blazer. Seifuku is more than just clothing; it is a symbol of discipline, responsibility, and identity. By wearing seifuku, students are expected to feel a sense of togetherness in their school community. In Japan, where collectivism is highly valued, seifuku serves to equalize students, eliminating any differences in social status that may exist.

However, behind this uniform impression, there are many things that can be criticized. For example, there is pressure to comply with very strict rules regarding how seifuku should be worn. Starting from the length of the skirt, the type of shoes, to the use of accessories. In some schools, minor violations can result in sanctions, which can make students feel pressured. Of course, this can be a dilemma for students, on the one hand they are expected to comply with the norms, but on the other hand they also want to express themselves. This is where the complexity of seifuku arises.

We also cannot ignore the role of seifuku in the entertainment world, especially anime and manga. Many characters wear seifuku, and it has become part of the iconography of Japanese pop culture. Seifuku is often associated with cheerful, intelligent, and spirited characters. Many fans are inspired by the appearance of these characters and try to imitate the style in their daily lives. This shows that seifuku also has an aesthetic aspect and can be said to be a fashion trend that attracts attention among young people.

Illustration of male idol performing on stage

Let's get to know what the term ishou is 

The term ishou can be broader and encompass any type of clothing. In Japan, fashion has a rich and varied history, ranging from traditional to modern fashion inspired by various global trends. Ishou not only reflects personal style, but also provides insight into one's social status, profession, and even cultural values. 

When discussing ishou, we cannot leave out the street fashion phenomenon that is developing in big cities like Tokyo. Independent brands, fashion collectives, and young designers create unique and bold styles, mixing traditional elements with modern ones. This creates an interesting dynamic in the fashion world, where individuals can express themselves without being tied to strict norms. Fashion becomes a means to express identity and personality.

However, behind this freedom of expression, there are challenges. Sometimes fashion trends can cause their own pressures. Many young people feel the need to follow trends or have certain items in order to be considered “trendy.” This can be a source of stress and anxiety for those who feel they cannot meet these standards. Additionally, for some people, the pressure to appear “perfect” in public can have an impact on their mental health.

The term seifuku in idol culture

Seifuku in idol culture refers to idol costumes that are in the form of uniforms. Seifuku itself is the standard costume for Japanese idols. There are several opinions about the history of seifuku in idol culture, but seifuku costumes in idol culture are mainly popularized by AKB48.

It is said that the idol group AKB48 uses uniform costumes as a motif to feel familiar so there is no doubt that the intention behind AKB48's initial costume is that the uniform means a familiar presence. Its sister groups such as SKE48, HKT48, and NMB48 also often have uniform costumes that follow the AKB48 style.

On the other hand, Nogizaka46, which was formed in 2011 and emerged as an official rival with its sister groups such as Keyakizaka46, has longer skirts than AKB48 group, giving a relatively graceful image. In terms of song direction and choreography, Nogizaka46 has a graceful style, while Keyakizaka46 has a lot of lyrics and intense choreography, so it is a contrast.

Seifuku or uniforms are also often seen in the world of Korean idols. There are several reasons why the concept of seifuku or uniforms is often used in the world of K-POP or Korean idols, one of which is that uniforms are a symbol of youth in Korea. Especially in groups with many teenage members, uniforms are a fresh and attractive device for young people and provide a sense of empathy and a sense of the same generation to age groups who tend to be fans by wearing uniforms in real life.

In addition, seifuku or uniforms have the advantage of making it easier for individuals to express their originality, especially in large groups, by allowing everyone to arrange it differently even though they are wearing the same uniform. Seifuku or uniforms are easy to create a sense of unity and individuality among many people, due to the influence of the debut of survival show series such as PRODUCE 1O1.

The term ishou in idol culture

The term ishou in Japanese idol culture refers to idol costumes other than uniforms. Costumes play a very important role in an idol's identity, more than just something to wear. Many unique costumes symbolize the idol image that each group aspires to be. For example, Keyakizaka46's costumes have calm colors and a heavy feel, highlighting their unique worldview of loneliness/battle as mentioned in their lyrics.

If AKB48 and Sakamichi Group have costumes that symbolize the group's image, there are also groups that use ishou or costumes to symbolize individual images. For example, Momoiro Clover Z, owned by Stardust, emphasizes its individuality through the color of the members in its costumes as the identity of the members and fans. 

The difference between seifuku and ishou

In the context of seifuku and ishou, we see two sides of the same coin. On one hand, we have the more formal and structured arrangement in the form of seifuku, which emphasizes discipline and collectivity. On the other hand, we have the more free and creative ishou, where individuals can express themselves through fashion. However, both reflect deep-seated values in Japanese society.

It is important to note that while seifuku and ishou have different characteristics, both serve to indicate one's identity and position in society. Students who wear seifuku may feel tied to their school, while individuals who choose a specific ishou may express themselves outside of existing boundaries.

As we look forward, it is important that we find a balance between preserving tradition and embracing innovation. We need to appreciate the meaning that seifuku holds as a symbol of discipline and togetherness, but at the same time, we must also allow space for individuals to express themselves creatively through ishou. As a society, we must support each other on this fashion journey and understand that at the end of the day, fashion is about how we want to be seen and how we want to express ourselves.

In this way, seifuku and ishou become not only clothes we wear, but also tools for understanding who we are and how we relate to others. Let's celebrate the beauty in diversity and continue to support each other in expressing ourselves through fashion.